Frantzén, Stockholm 2019

We previously visited Frantzén in 2014 when it was located at Lilla Nygatan 21 in the old town part of Stockholm. By the time it was obvious that Björn was pushing for three Michelin stars, but everything felt a bit "forced" and "cramped" (not only the…

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2019  review  stockholm  sweden 

Frantzén, Stockholm 2019

We previously visited Frantzén in 2014 when it was located at Lilla Nygatan 21 in the old town part of Stockholm. By the time it was obvious that Björn was pushing for three Michelin stars, but everything felt a bit "forced" and "cramped" (not only the location).

In order to not let anything stand in the way of success, Björn and his team made a bold move and closed down the restaurant and relocated to Klara Norra Kyrkogata (a very central address) where an ambitious project started transforming several floors of real-estate into a restaurant of dreams.

As we hit the button labeled "The restaurant" on the elevator going from the entrance floor to the top of the building, the light turns on and speakers starts playing the classic intro to AC/DC:s "Back in Black". It's hard not to have a big smile as the doors open and we're very warmly greeted by General Manager and sommelier Carl Frosterud.

As we're seated and presented our choice of champagne we have a chance to look around the room. A spacious loft creates a very relaxed vibe to get into the mood. As we sip our champagne we're greeted by different chefs and presented amazing canapés. The entire dining experience is broken up in sections and "stations" which creates a different dimension to the traditional "sit down and eat"– we love it!

Beer croustade, cold smoked pike, wild trout roe, white seaweed & Japanese mustard
Grape macaron, whipped foie gras, condensed port wine, danish rye & hibiscus
“Råraka”

One of the first stations lets us experience the different produce we'll be feasting on later. Beautifully presented from the adjacent bar-area as we're tasting even more amazing canapés for our Champagne. We love the ability to interact with the chefs and staff in order to heighten the entire dining experience, everything has been carefully thought about here!

Poached celeriac, preserved truffles, argan oil, nutmeg & Swedish maple syrup

Carl appears again and asks us to bring our glasses and to have a look around in the test kitchen. Carl even throws Maries handbag over his shoulder and walks ahead (he looks amazing). The vibe he creates is simply great, it's relaxed and very enjoyable.

In the kitchen we can't stop talking (as is normal with us when we get a chance to talk food) to head chef Marcus Jernmark which graciously takes of his time to explain his thought process and inspiration. We're 45 minutes into the restaurant visit and we haven't even been seated yet– we're just enjoying every bit of this experience.

Marcus and Carl

As the natural wine enthusiasts we are, we have low hopes for finding any here (the previous instalment didn't carry any)– but Carl surprises us and tells us he has a box for us to indulge from and that we should come check it out in the wine cellar. We're all set!

The dining room has an open kitchen, a few larger tables, but mostly a generous bar where everyone is seated. The layout makes it possible to have great interactions with the staff without constant interruptions when sitting face-to-face at a table.

Each dish is plated table side and we just enjoy every bite. Out of this world is the deep-fried langoustine. Crispy, salty, acidic...wow! Further highlights includes chawanmushi with prestige selection caviar and the Frantzén staple of French toast and truffles (a lot of truffles!).

Crudo: scallop, salted plum & tomato water, fermented anchovy, horseradish and purple radish
Deep fried langoustine, crispy rice, dried green onions, emulsion of clarified butter infused with ginger
Chawanmushi & prestige caviar
Nordic alfonsino, beurre blanc, sea urchin, “XO”-sauce and sea buckthorn oil
Anglerfish, fermented mushroom broth, pea-miso, hazelnut oil & Jerusalem artichoke
French toast “grand tradition 2008”, truffles, “vacate rosse” & aged vinegar
Wagyu (gunma A5), sweet corn cream, red curry condiment & herbs
Iced buttermilk & glass rhubarb, pumpkinseed praline, saffron sabayonne, umeshu & strawberries

The pacing of the dishes is excellent and Carl and Lukas pops in with great banter in between. It's simply just enjoyable in every way. Music in the background is a throwback to the 90s. Enjoying world-class produce in the company of old rock classics from for e.g. Guns n' Roses is the perfect mix of luxury and a relaxed vibe.

As the dinner wraps up, we again head up to the loft for final desserts, fantastic treats, coffee and more. A perfect way to end the meal in a relaxed and comfortable way.

V70 coffee
Swedish "fika"
Madeleines

Frantzén is finally a restaurant that creates a complete dining experience from the moment we enter to the moment we leave. Not since visiting Saison in 2013 have we been this impressed and pleasantly surprised. It's clear that a lot of money and hard work has been spent to create the new restaurant Frantzén. We're not surprised that it immediately got its three Michelin stars and that the setup is so perfectly balanced between luxury and a casual and relaxed setting. We're so happy to have such an amazing restaurant only a few hours away from home.

See more in Frantzén, Stockholm 2019

2019 review stockholm sweden

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