Hoze, Gothenburg 2015

If we see one rising star in Gothenburg, it sure is José Cerdá. Every time we've had the pleasure of eating his creations, we've gone home with smiles on our faces and happy stomachs. If you're unfamiliar with Hoze, we've written about a previous visit…

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2015  gothenburg  review  sweden 

Hoze, Gothenburg 2015

If we see one rising star in Gothenburg, it sure is José Cerdá. Every time we've had the pleasure of eating his creations, we've gone home with smiles on our faces and happy stomachs. If you're unfamiliar with Hoze, we've written about a previous visit here.

José creates a thoughtful tasting menu consisting of intriguing dishes with flavours that excites. The restaurant has grown in many inclinations since its inception and it's a lot of fun to have a restaurant in our home town of Gothenburg that actually has a genuine drive to go further.

Just previous to our visit, Hoze has stated that the restaurant is taking it's next steps and has further refined its concept and produce. On these premises, we knew we had to schedule another visit. As the restaurant has grown in popularity, it has become increasingly hard to get a reservation here – but we're lucky and managed to acquire a sitting in the small six-seated restaurant.

After getting acquainted with Gabriel Cerdá (José's father, and also front of house server) we're served a drink of Iribancha, maple, ginger and yuzu. The ginger is extremely potent and our taste-buds surely are awakened after this.

One thing that's clear from the start is that Hoze has taken a big step in upgrading the plates – collaborating with local craftsmen. The dishes look stunning in their new vessels!

Foie gras croquette and caviar

The dishes not only look stunning – they taste amazing as well. The combination of sardines, tomato, parsley and aioli; which is finished off with a blowtorch is an amazing bite; perfectly salty and creamy.

Toast, sardine, tomato, parsley and aioli
Churro, sour cream, chives, red onion, vendace roe and dill
Crisp, almost burnt cream, shiitake, scallop, nashi pear, fennel and lemon
Almost burnt toast, maple, chicken emulsion, chives, caviar, black kale, lemon zest

Another enhancement is the quality in produce that's being served. Amongst it all, amazing caviar and truffles – it's all a real delight. 

Tortilla españolaEgg velouté, deep fried sunchoke cubes, caramelized onion, black truffles and chive oil
Blue mussels, tomato water jelly, parsley oil, pearl onion, aioli, potato crisp, mussel broth and ink
Mi cuit smoked razor clams, haricot, matsutake, caviar, yuzu salt, chive oil and potato

A highlight is however the Wagyu beef which is arguably one of the best pieces of meat we've tasted. Coated in ash and served with smoked eel cream and chives it's a really memorable experience.

Smoked eel cream, wagyu, ash and chives

The sushi is as good as we remember it. The salmon belly is the perfect ending bite – this has to be tasted!

Trout sushi
Salmon belly sushi

As per usual; José focuses on savoury instead of sweet desserts – even more evident now when Sebastian Pettersson is no longer helping out with the dessert-creations. 

Grilled fig, brie, heather honey
Cauliflower, white chocolate, coffee oil

The best part is however when José starts slicing and grinding "green-tea-ice" from a huge Kakigori machine. Served with sweet adzuki beans and condensed milk – it's a real hit! 

Kakigori, green tea, adzuki beans and condensed milk

This is where Hoze shines. Bringing in and creating twists from different cultures around the world; and it's a lot of fun to chit-chat with José about his travels and sources of inspiration.

The meal is ended with Chemex-brewed coffee from Per Nordby. We're missing the "French toast" from our last visit but appart from that the meal as a whole has been a real treat.

The visit is very personal, and chatting with both José and Gabriel, the feeling is basically like we're dining in their home. This is further emphasised when José's dog Momo honors us with a visit. No wonder as she's an important part of the crew!!

Momo

Great new plateware, fantastic produce and an array of great dishes. No wonder Hoze is still our favourite restaurant in Gothenburg!

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2015 gothenburg review sweden

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