Ante, Copenhagen 2016
Restaurant Ante is Samuel Nutter and Victor Vågman’s new Restaurant which aims to further refine the dining experience from their successful restaurant BROR. Ante is also the successor of Café Lillebror, which used to house in these very premises; but everything from the small café has now been ripped out and carefully replaced to serve the new restaurant concept.
Ok, first things first. It definitively feels “strange” to walk into the restaurant. Going from a sun-bathing Copenhagen and into a dark “cellar-type” setup with heavy fabrics for all the windows. The lighting is made up of candles and very dim lamps above each table and the music is…let’s say “interesting” :) But this makes us forget about the outside. We don’t look at people walking by, or gaze out on the street— We’re here for a food experience, and the setup draws us into it from the start, rather daring.
It’s a rather “slow-thursday”, so the staff has some extra time to spend with us, and we use the opportunity. This heightens our experience a lot— Marcus and chefs Alexander and Hanne are terrific and we feel spoiled for the night.
We start of with snacks covering our 5 tastes. First up is a board covering sweet (carrot and kombucha), salty (Seaweed and mackerel), acidic (Apple and black currant) and bitter (rye cracker, woodruff and cod roe), followed by a grilled flatbread with mushrooms and yeast for umami. Great combos all around. Our favourite tastes were salty and acidic.
The presentation of the Danish onion soup is interesting. We’re presented with a plate of onion shells, and we have to go “hunt” for the ones that’s filled with onion and cheese using our breadsticks. This is fingerlickingly good!
Some dishes presents the excellent produce in its purity, and sometimes the dishes has further work put behind them. For instance, the “lobster tail”, which is several parts of the lobster, put inside a “pastry lobster tail” and made to look like a lobster tail with beetroot juice! This is an iconic dish; and the fact that there’s lobster brain inside the tail puts us in the “BROR” mindset of not letting animal produce go to waste— terrific!
Another nod to the BROR concept are the three servings of turbot. The grilled turbot has its scales fried in a lot of butter, making them super crispy, which gives a fantastic mouthfeel. This definitively was one of the highlight dishes of the meal.
At the start of the meal, we're presented with the pork loin that'll later in the meal be cooked and served to us. This is excellent produce and it tastes delicious.
The lamb tartare with sheep milk cheese & biscuit base— wow, this was really good.
As we await our deserts, we have a chance to look inside the small kitchen and we get to keep chatting away with the other foodies from the staff.
The deserts go great together with the fantastic Koppi coffee we’re presented with, and a highlight is when our new friends from the staff starts grilling rosemary marshmallows and cloudberry pancakes.
It’s been an interesting journey during the night. The staff truly made the visit extra fun and several of the dishes were real delights. This night will be one to remember!