Bror, Copenhagen 2014
The Copenhagen food scene owes a lot to Noma. Quite a few restaurants have opened with talented chefs which previously worked for the currently ranked number 1 restaurant in the world (for instance Relæ and Amass). Two sous chefs of the talented brigade at Noma were Samuel Nutter & Victor Wagman which opened up Bror in 2013 (without any backing investors!). The fact that the restaurant isn't backed by piles of money means that focus has been set on making the most out of limited resources. In our opinion, this is one of Brors' strengths. The plates are chipped and the cutlery are placed in a bowl at the table (and hardly any of the cutlery match each other). Instead, Bror is full of charm and soul— where the diner can simply enjoy talent on a plate, without the extra "fuss".
Despite opening the restaurant on a budget, the location of Bror is very central in Copenhagen and you'll probably walk by it on a stroll through the city. As we enter, we're welcomed to the lower of the two floors in the restaurant. It's a little cramped (and thus "cozy"). The vibe is very "casual" and relaxed. We hear groups of people laughing and having a good time.
Bror serves a 4-course tasting menu, where it's possible to add dishes (and "snacks" as some of them are called). The snacks is where Samuel and Victor can push the boundaries a bit— and we go for the bulls' balls with tartar sauce (not something we've tried before) and cod cheek, remoulade and crispy bread.
As usual when trying "offal" food like bulls' balls, the taste and texture is a lot better than expected from the description. We know we're in talented hands, and have no problem eating whatever is presented to us. The bulls' balls is kind of a talking point of Bror, and we can understand why— there's not many restaurants that have the balls to serve this (yes, pun intended!)
The cod cheek is also great, and we're happy that we can eat everything of the fish (no-waste-cooking is dear to us!). However, the fact that the fish-eye is staring at one of us makes us a little uncomfortable...this isn't for everyone.
We also try a bowl of plaice, söl and cep. Söl is an Icelandic seaweed and cep is a kind of mushroom. Very interesting ingredients together with the plaice.
The tasting menu has a great progression, and great use of vegetables. This is "enjoyable food". Nothing is overworked or too processed, perfect for the kind of restaurant Bror aspires to be. The fact that the main course is a take on "taco" that's eaten without cutlery shows the relaxed attitude that embodies Bror. Even though the food is in a way "simple", it's evident that there's tricks that has been used, and knowledge that has been incorporated in each dish to take it a step above the rest.
The service is very friendly and "happy"— every request we have is met with a smile.
Bror serves only natural wines together with the dishes-- and as we've told before, this creates an extra dimension for us, as the wines truly has their own "character" and this is certainly no exception at Bror— great selections during the entire menu.
Here's a sample of what we tasted:
After our meal we feel happy and energised. This is certainly a perfect spot to visit before going further into what Copenhagen has to offer. We have heightened senses and an appreciation for fun and "happy" dining. The perfect restaurant to visit again and again.
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Ze Bulle, Saumur, 2012, Zero Pointé, Cabernet Franc.